Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Pick Your Person: A Guide to Choosing Your Derby Name


By Parks N Wreck




You’ve finally decided to strap on those skates and get out on the track, bumpin’ hips with the best of them, the wind flowing through your helmet. Now if only you had the perfect name to go along with those sick, new bruises. Deciding on a name for derby can be a difficult endeavor, plagued with uncertainty and endless puns. The list of potential names you’ve collected may seem overwhelming, but here are some points to consider to help make that list a tad more manageable.

img_2523-1
Photo by Zaftig Unicorn

1. What Makes You Tick?

Every skate name has meaning to it’s owner; be it an inside joke, a play on their own name, paying homage to a favorite tv/video game/book series, hell, even a favorite food. Derby names aren’t just about clever puns and scary sounding names. If something resonates with you in a special way, own it. Don’t be afraid to be you.

2. Fear and Loathing

You wanna be a badass. A rebel. A hard-hitting, teeth-clacking, force to be reckoned with. For many, derby is a chance to live outside of their own personalities and personify that inner warrior on eight wheels. If you want your alias to provoke an emotional response within yourself, and the opposing team, don’t be afraid to dig deep and go for that scary-as-all-hell namesake.
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Photo courtesy of Zaftig Unicorn Photography

3. Outdated and Full of Regrets

Some references are topical but quickly dated. Tastes come and go, and once that meme you found hilarious a few months ago is buried in internet history, you’ll regret all those tanks you personalized.

4. Reign in the Raunch

This moniker is not simply a skate name. It isn’t just something announced at games and panted on your jersey. The derby name you choose is a representation of yourself. Think of it as a brand. Your brand can be as scary, weird, or nerdy as you’d like, but you might want think about what leagues will allow you to guest skate with that tongue-in-cheek joke. FCRD is a family friendly league and holds their skaters to the same standards.
 

5. Explaining the Joke

Some names invoke a polite smile and a head scratch from teammates and fans alike. Though the name means something awesome or clever to you, the majority tilt their head and try a Google search. If you don’t mind answering “What does your derby name mean?” a thousand times at each bout, then go for it, but those less sociable and easily vexed may want to steer clear.
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Photo by KC Derby Digest

7. Short but Sweet

Out on the track is a completely different, fast paced, world. Strategies change by the second, skaters blur by, and communication is key. Not a single one of my teammates would ever yell “Parks N Wreck, wall up!” Although “Park, get back here!” is much more likely. Your alias is unique to you but, in a pinch, a long winded string of syllables just won’t work on the track. As you run through your list of potential monikers, try also shortening them and see how that sticks with you. Yes, your fake name will also have a nickname. No, it’s not as confusing as it sounds.


8. Lasting Power

Of course, anyone is welcome to mix it up every few years, but that growing pile of outdated merch you had specially made will haunt you from the back of your closet. Skaters of various skill levels and seniority are bound to want to change their name in the future, but if you think carefully and tactfully, your name could potentially live as long as your derby career.

Sunday, November 26, 2017

MADE Strategy

by Johnson
strategypic
Photo courtesy of KC Derby Digest


So, you’ve got the skills.  Now, how do you use them?
Each team will have it’s own strategy which is some sort of evolution of this basic M.A.D.E. roller derby strategy.  Just as with any game, as the skills of the players increase, the strategy must be altered to fit their abilities or to take advantages of holes in the strategy of their opponents.  
Disclaimer: Basic strategy doesn’t take into account players in the penalty box, so we’ll do the same for the purposes of this post, and assume players are perfect.  


Positional Roles Off the Whistle

figurea

Before the whistle, teams line up on the track each with a pivot (striped helmet cover) on the front line, a jammer (helmet cover with star) between the rearmost blocker and the back line, and 3 blockers somewhere between the lines.  
Basic strategy calls for one of the blockers (often referred to as the Outside blocker) to be positioned on the front line between that blocker’s pivot and the nearest opposing blocker.  The idea is to provide your pivot with as much of a cushion as possible for a clean start that might enable them to achieve the forward most position on the track.  
Assuming the blocker’s pivot has gained forward most position, it is now the blocker’s job to fend off the opposing pivot and blocker(s) and alert the pivot if they start to skate beyond the 20’ engagement zone.  The pivot needs to be in a position where s/he can legally take off if the opposing jammer is marked active and the pivot’s jammer is not free to follow.
The next two blockers, often referred to as Inside and Bump, are positioned somewhere behind the Outside and Pivot, and in front of the jammers, the exact positioning of these blockers depends on their initial goal. Basic strategy indicates they are tasked with preventing/slowing the opposing jammer’s progress, and to do so, they may set up side-by-side in front of the opposing jammer or staggered so as to avoid opposing blockers or to cover multiple lanes.
Regardless of how they line up before the whistle, after the whistle is blown, these blockers need to find each other and come together as a solid wall intent on keeping that opposing jammer behind them and as slow as possible, while also ensuring they remain within the 20’ engagement zone.
Jammers, before the whistle, should ensure they are legally positioned on the track– behind the rearmost blocker of both teams and in front of the back line. Basic strategy for a jammer is to take off with as much power and aggression as possible in order to burst through the front of the pack before the opposing jammer.
figureb

Team with Lead Jammer

After a jammer breaks free from the pack on the initial pass, that jammer’s team has two goals: keep the opposing jammer and pivot locked down, and keep the pace of the pack as slow as possible.  The slower the pack, the less time it takes for the jammer to race around the track and start scoring points.

figurecTeam without Lead Jammer

The opposing team also has two goals, which, of course, are in direct contradiction to those of the other team: 1) get a jammer active – pivot and jammer need to be attacking opposite sides of the track to find a weak spot and to break one of them free, and 2) make that pack move as fast as possible.  The faster the pack, the harder it is for the lead jammer’s team to hold a wall and the harder it is for the lead jammer to catch up and score points.

The Scoring Pass

On a scoring pass, there are two options for the blockers: make holes (offense) or be in a wall (defense).  If the lead jammer has a significant lead (more than ¼ of a track), basic strategy calls for blockers to participate in an active offense which requires trying to slow the pack pace and making holes in the opposing team’s wall(s) or distracting opposing blockers to help the jammer score as many points as possible before feeling pressure from the opposing team’s active jammer.  However, the opposing team will be focused on keeping the pack moving and staying together in a human wall covering as much of the track as possible to prevent the lead jammer from scoring.
If the two active jammers are relatively close together (¼ of a track or less) one blocker from the lead jammer’s team may attempt a quick offensive to get the jammer a couple of points before the opposing jammer begins to challenge what is left of the wall.  In such a situation, it is imperative that the lead jammer maintains situational awareness and calls the jam before the opposing jammer has a chance to out-score them.
It is often said of blockers that they must be able to switch from offensive to defensive strategies at the drop of a hat, and sometimes, even play both at the same time.  However, jammers must not forget they too have to maintain a certain defensive mindset.  For instance:
  • Jammers need to know the point spread for the current jam as well as for the game.
  • Jammers must keep an eye out for the other jammer’s whereabouts.  Are the opposing pivot and jammer in the box?  Are they still fighting through the initial pass?  Is the active jammer on your heels or vice versa, or are you struggling to chase them down?  
  • Jammers should know where their blockers are.  Are any in/going to the box?  Are any on the floor?  Are they walled up in the front/back? Are any coming back to the track from the box, etc.
  • Jammers should be able to analyze all of this information quickly enough to decide whether to call the jam or to continue fighting for points (or at least be aware of the coaches yelling direction to them).

Conclusion

In the end of course, the basic strategy all comes down to scoring more points than the opposition.  It takes time and practice to perfect the best methods to make that happen in any given situation, but knowing the positions and general roles above will help get you started!

Thursday, November 2, 2017

MADE Rules Breakdown -- Topic Six


MADE Rules Breakdown – Topic Six

All the Extras

Taken directly from: SKATE MADE

Injury Procedure

Should a skater be injured during play, they should signal to the refs using a thumb up or thumb down. If signaling with a thumb up, they should pull themselves off the track, at which time, one of their teammates may line up for substitution. The replacement player may only enter when signaled by the nearest Outside Ref and from the rear of the Pack. When the injured skater signals a thumb down for a significant injury, or the downed skater is unresponsive, the nearest ref will signal the Injury Alert to end the jam with four short whistle blows. Injured player(s), who stop the jam, will not be allowed to return to play until the next period, or cleared by an EMT, whichever is sooner.


Cutting Track:

Cutting track is considered the act of skating out of bounds in order to reduce the distance one must travel around the track; or the act of skating out of bounds in order to advance position. Skaters are not allowed to cut track, but may advance position by jumping the turn as long as they begin and end their jump while in bounds. Lifting a skate to avoid being out of bounds is permitted.

 

Exemption for Active Jammers on Scoring Pass Only:

Active Jammers are exempt from cutting track in the Blocking Zone. Should an Active Jammer cut the track for any reason, they can either: pull up, let that Blocker(s) pass, re-enter the track and re-pass those players to be awarded points; or they may continue on, but without any points for the opposing players they passed while out of bounds. Active Jammers who continue on, and enter the Pack, having passed no opposing players in bounds, will not be allowed to signal the end of the Jam until they score a point on that pass.



Out of Play Rule

Any skater (excluding Active Jammers or Jammers making their first pass through the pack to become active) who are more than 20' away from the pack, out of bounds, or in the situation of a no-pack, are considered "Out of Play." Any skater who is on the ground (any body part other than skates touching the ground) is considered Out of Play. Out of Play skaters must yield to Active Jammers or be issued a penalty.

 

Blocking zone: Opposing players may engage each other in the Pack and within 20' in either direction (ahead of or behind) the Pack. Any player outside of this zone is not considered in play (except Active Jammers), and therefore not part of the Pack. Active Jammers are considered part of the pack anytime they are within 20' of other players. Out of play skaters can neither assist nor block.

 

Once an Active Jammer has exited the Blocking Zone, opposing players, with the exception of the opposing Active Jammer, may not engage them, or hinder their progress, until they are once again within 20' of the Pack. Blockers who chase the Active Jammer past the Blocking Zone will be issued an Out of Play penalty.

 

If there is "No Pack" as signaled by the Pack or Head Ref, you have dead play. During dead play, skaters, cannot engage nor assist. Active Jammers may still engage other skaters, but not assist during dead play. During Dead Play or an evenly "Split Pack" players must actively reform the Pack within the parameters indicated by the Pack or Head Ref, generally the centermost mass, and are to resume normal play when signaled to "Resume Play" by the Pack or Head Ref. Failure to reform the pack will result in an Out of Play penalty for all skaters involved. In a No Pack situation, a Pivot may still break.



Gear

All players must wear quad skates, helmet, mouth guard, wrist guards, elbow pads and knee pads. Any loose or ill-fitting equipment must be taped or adjusted. Skating officials must wear helmets and knee pads -- mouth guards, wrist and elbow pads are optional, but recommended.

 

Team uniforms are determined by color uniformity, not style uniformity.

 

Only officials may wear black and white striped tops.





 

 

MADE Rules Breakdown -- Topic Five


MADE Rules Breakdown – Topic Five

Penalties

Taken directly from: Skate MADE

Penalties are to be served as they are called by the Officials, and only while jam clock is running. Offending skaters go directly to the penalty box in the center of the track to serve their time. Penalties begin to be served when, and only when, the skater is seated in the box. The skater must return to the track from in front of the penalty box only. Skaters must enter at the rear of the Pack and yield to passing referees. The "Rear of the Pack" is from the last person in the Pack extending to the end of the rear Blocking Zone. Only two skaters from each team may be in the box at once. Should a third (or more) player from a team commit a penalty, they will continue play until a seat frees up in the box.

 

Should the Jammer’s penalty time carry over to the next jam, the offending team starts with a substitute Jammer, but skates short, until the penalized Jammer finishes serving their time and returns to play as a Blocker. 

 

Should a team have more than five players on the track at the start of the Jam, fail to line up Pivot or Jammer, or more than one player wearing a Jammer or Pivot helmet cover, they will be issued a Team Penalty. At instant of team infraction, the Head Ref will signal the end of the Jam and the team must choose one player from the track to immediately serve the penalty. The teams will then line back up and the Head Ref will restart the jam.

 

Penalties will be signaled by any ref using two short whistle blasts. Penalties may be awarded between jams. Warnings may be issued at the ref's discretion.

 

Minor Penalties (1 minute)

False start

Cutting Track

Out of Play

Illegal Contact or Maneuver

Insubordination: Failure to comply, return to the bench, or unauthorized contact with officials (must be a Captain, Manager or Coach) 

 

Major Penalties (2 minutes)

Excessive Force

Team Penalty

 

Automatic Ejection
Abusive language or behavior to opponents, officials or audience. Exceeding 5 minutes of accrued penalties. Should a player commit a sixth penalty and be ejected from the game, the respective team must choose a substitute player to sit their final penalty.

MADE Rules Breakdown -- Topic Four


MADE Rules Breakdown – Topic Four

Blocks and Maneuvers

Taken directly from: Skate MADE

Legal Contact and Maneuvers

Legal Body Parts Used When Blocking: Any area from the shoulders down to above the knees, with the exception of the area of the arm from the elbow to the fingertips. 

Legal Body Parts to Administer Blocks Against: Any area from the shoulders down to above the knees, with the exception of the spine.

  • Blocking Walls are permitted. A blocking wall is when two or more players are skating side-by-side, with wrists crossed, but not interlocking. Skaters may not hold on to any body part, equipment or clothing while executing a Blocking Wall.
  • Blocks on the start whistle are permitted only if the initiating Blocker’s skates have rolled forward first.
  • Skaters may engage another player while skating backwards, provided they are moving in the same direction as the Pack. Illegal Contact and Maneuvers

  • Railroading and blocking out of bounds is prohibited.
  • A skater can not prevent an opposing player from re-entering the track.
  • Gaining momentum while out of bounds and re-entering the track to block an opposing player is prohibited.
  • Though blocking using the upper shoulder is legal when administered to an opposing Blocker’s shoulder blade, Jammers may not do so when active.
  • You can not come to a complete stop to execute a block nor to detain an out of bounds skater from returning into the Pack.
  • Skating clockwise on track during jam is prohibited.
  •  Forward motion should be maintained at all times to be in play. Stopped players will be signaled to resume motion by nearest referee. Failure to do so will result in a penalty.
  • All blocks must be made within bounds and within the time limits of the jam. Early or late blocks will result in a penalty.
  • Any skater (with the exception of Active Jammers, or Jammers on their initial pass who are required to reset behind pack) who goes out of bounds as a result of a block must enter behind the person who administered the block, unless both parties go out of bounds as a result, or if the blocking player becomes Out of Play.

MADE Rules Breakdown -- Topic Three

MADE Rules Breakdown – Topic Three
Scoring Points
The team with the highest score at the end of the game wins.  It’s that simple.
Active jammers are the only ones that can score points.  Once the jammer breaks the pack and has completed the lap to catch back up with the pack is when the points are scored.  Each player the jammer passes is a point.
Active jammers must be wearing the helmet cover to score points.
If the opposing team has a player in the box, there is a ghost point awarded once the first opposing player is passed in the pack.
If the opposing team has an out of bounds player, there is a point award once the jammer has passed them while they are out of bounds.
Active jammers can be awarded points for lapping the opposing jammer, whether active or non-active. 
Points are awarded if the opposing team fails to field the correct number of players at the start of the jam.  I.E. skating a player short.  The point is awarded upon the start whistle for each missing player on the opposing team.

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Week 7 - Blocking

by Striking Dervish


In this last week of new skills, we’re finally getting into the best part!  We’ve waited until now because, it is necessary to be comfortable on your skates and skating around other roller derby skaters in order to safely perform blocks. We’ll go over a variety of ways that you can make contact with another skater this week, first covering all of the legal blocking zones.

Legal Blocking Zones

Legal Body Parts Used When Blocking: Any area from the shoulders down to above the knees, with the exception of the area of the arm from the elbow to the fingertips.
Legal Body Parts to Administer Blocks Against: Any area from the shoulders down to above the knees, with the exception of the spine.

Blocks

Shoulder Block

This is the first tested block that we learn and is a review from last week.  To administer the block:
  1. Skate side by side with the target, no more than one step away.
  2. Shift your weight from A-frame to centered over the leg closest to the target.
  3. Move your ribcage towards the target (as opposed to “tipping” over)
  4. Make contact with the target’s shoulder using your shoulder
Generally speaking, this is the most ineffective block on the track.  You will affect another skater more using your hips or the side of your body.  

Tri-Block

The triceps are legal to use against another skater.  We practice the tri-block from slightly behind and to the side of the intended target.  Lift your arm parallel to the floor, keeping your forearm and hand out of the way (might touch your opposite shoulder with your hand).  Then hit your partner’s shoulder with your tricep.  Ideally, you will want to use a body motion (similar to what was discussed for the shoulder block) to strengthen the block and “shove” your partner to the side.  Note that your elbow might move in the direction towards your partner, but you should never break a 90 degree angle with your arm (thus making contact with your elbow which is illegal).  It is best to keep your arm perpendicular to your partner’s side to avoid this situation.  If we practice control in our blocking, it will be easier to keep it legal in the less-controlled environment of game play.

Booty Blocking

Booty blocking is also known as positional blocking.  The person booty blocking is in front of the person being blocked and attempts to keep them behind by moving side to side.  Some tips for success:
  • Keep watch over one shoulder.  If the partner goes out of sight, you will still know that your partner has moved towards the other shoulder.  Flipping your head back and forth is a quick way to get faked.
  • Stay low, but do not bend over (keep your chest up).
  • Feet should be a bit wider than shoulder width, but not too wide that you lose agility with your feet.
  • Use snow plow motions to keep the pace slow.  If you are even able to make contact with your partner, this is ideal.  Contact means you not only know visually where they are, but you can feel where they might be going.
  • The quickest way to close off space is by leading with the booty.  
The person being blocked should practice never touching with his/her hands.  Instead make contact with legal parts (chest, pelvic area, thighs, etc.)

Hip Check

Hip checks are an effective way to impact an opponent’s trajectory and/or knock them down by hitting at the center of gravity.  There are a number of ways to approach a skater in order to block them.  In practice for a hip check, we often use a cutting motion around the skater and hit the front hip pocket with our hip at the end of the cut.  
We begin by practicing cutting cones again.  Remember to get low in the cut, hovering over the cone with your rear as if you were attempting to sit on the cone.  Also don’t forget to line your feet up with the foot closest to the cone in front.  Keep your chest up, butt down!  
Once we move back to partners, use the same cutting motion to cut around your partner, leading with the hip to hit his/her front pocket.  Other notes:
  • Hitting to the front pocket ensures that you have control of the opposing skater’s forward momentum.  
  • If you can work in a bit of a swing in the hip, you will have a more effective block.  
  • Try to keep your arm out of the way of the point of contact.
  • If you miss the block and end up in front of the opposing skater, this is also a success on the track because it can be turned into a booty block, even if it is not the skill we are working on.

J-Block / Hockey Block

In a J-Block we are hitting from the side or maybe slightly in front, but the main goal/difference from other blocks is the fact that we are hitting on the way up.  In doing so, you are lifting them upwards and messing up their stability.  To perform the block:
  1. Start from a half of a step away from your partner
  2. Lean slightly away from your partner
  3. Drop low into a squat (butt down, chest up)
  4. Come back up towards your partner, leading with the hip
  5. Make contact on the way up.  

Note that the drop and rise should make a J motion, giving the block its name.  It is
very important to hit on the way up on this block.  Dropping, coming up, and following it with a straight shoulder block is not a J-block.  Ideally, you are making contact with the full side of your body.  It may also come in the form of a hip followed by a shoulder.  Either is correct.  The most important element is hitting upwards.  

Shoulder Blade Block

Fountain City lovingly calls this block the “douche” block because it is reminiscent of a douchey person walking into someone on purpose.  The block is a shoulder “slap” on the opposing skater’s shoulder blade (if he/she is about the same height).  For height differences, it may be against a different place on the back, but remember which areas are illegal to hit against (i.e., spine and head). The skater performing the block is starting from behind.  To perform the block:
  1. While behind your partner, line up his/her shoulder with about your collarbone.
  2. Pull your shoulder back by turning your body.
  3. Turn your body the opposite direction forcefully to slap your shoulder against the skater’s shoulder blade.  

Some notes to consider:

  • The motion is a lot like a shoulder shimmy
  • A truly effective douche block is one that aims for the other side of the skater, not just the skater’s shoulder blade.
  • Do not follow through with your arm, making unintentional contact with the forearm/hand.
  • Motion can be downward for a taller skater working on a shorter skater (and is also effective for knocking a skater on his/her face!)
  • This block is not legal for an active jammer.

Pelvic Block

In a pelvic block, we are utilizing the legal blocking zones of the pelvic area (blocking with) and the buttocks (blocking against) to push an opposing skater forward.  These are most used when attempting to break up a blocking wall from behind.  To perform the skill:
  1. Make sure that you are in derby stance, and come close behind your partner.
  2. In a rocking motion, swing your hips forward to make contact.

Some notes to consider:

  • Do not stand straight up while attempting this skill.  This goes for both the blocker and the person being blocked!
  • To receive the block, make sure that your chest is up.  If you are leaning over, you are heading towards a face plant!
  • Using your upper thighs is also acceptable, and sometimes it will be necessary for height differences.
  • Blocking against one cheek as opposed to dead center is also acceptable.

Drag Block

A drag block is a method of moving a skater out of the way when starting from behind that skater.  This is not a strike as in the other blocks we’ve covered so far.  It is a sneak in and drag off.  The positioning can be tricky, so we practice this first from a stand still:
  • The person being blocked against should be in derby stance
  • While standing behind your partner, put one foot in between their feet. If the skater is shorter or has their feet together, you may also straddle.
  • Bring your arm to the side and in front of your partner either by snaking around them or windmilling your arm over the top.  
  • Drop LOW so that you can put your armpit into your partner’s hip or side and get your head in front of them.  Note that you will be leaning forward more than you typically would be in good derby stance, but it is also essential that you drop your butt as well.  Keeping your legs bent and butt low will encourage stability.  
  • Keep your forearm and hand away from your partner.  A good way to do this is by touching your hand to your opposite shoulder.  

To perform the block:

  1. Get into the position discussed while rolling.  Having your head in front is an important element for keeping control of the other skater’s front side.
  2. Move the foot that is away from your partner further in front and push on the inside edge.  This will steer both of you in the opposite direction.  
Drag blocks are most often used to move a skater from inside to outside the track, but testing either side is acceptable.  
Some safety points on this one:
  • To get out of the block, you will need to snake out in a similar way that you go into the block.
  • DO NOT STAND UP IN THIS BLOCK.  Because of the positioning, standing up would send the person being blocked against over your leg and onto his/her back or head.
  • Avoid pushing upwards with your arm for the same reason.

Drag Block Deflection

This transition skill is not easy and is only tested for Class 2 skaters.  Once a skater has you in a drag block, this is a method of getting out of it.  Simply put, it is a transition to backwards skating followed by a transition to forwards skating.  Here is the full breakdown:
  1. Once a skater makes contact with the drag block, pick up the foot furthest from the blocking skater and set it down in the mohawk.  You will be turning your back towards the blocking skater.
  2. Follow this by completing the transition with the other foot.  
  3. This transition removes us from the drag.  Ideally, the blocking skater’s momentum will continue in the drag direction.
  4. Transition again over the same shoulder to complete the 360 turn.  
  5. If the blocking skater has continued his/her trajectory, you can now skate up the track on their opposite side.  
Some skaters find that they have more stability doing the second transition by pivoting on their toestops instead.  This is not wrong, but we don’t often recommend this for brand new skaters who are still getting used to their toestops and transitions.

Pivot Block

This transition skill is not easy and is only tested for Class 2 skaters.  It is used as a method of getting around a skater.  Simply put, it is a transition, douche block, and another transition.  Here is the full breakdown:
  1. Approach the opposing skater from behind, lining up their shoulder with approximately your collar bone. You should be traveling just slightly faster than your partner.
  2. Once you are close behind, pick up the foot closest to your partner and set it down in the mohawk.  
  3. The rest of the transition happens just after you have passed his/her shoulder.
  4. With the same slapping motion of the douche block, hit the front of your partner’s shoulder with your own.  
  5. Transition again in the same direction (you will be making a complete 360 turn) to skate away from your partner.

Some notes to consider:

  • For the maximum stability and control of your partner, keep constant contact, rolling against him/her while transitioning around.
  • This is where it is extremely necessary to pick up your feet to complete the transitions.  Dragging them in a circle is a good way of running into your partner or not being stable.  
  • Pivot blocks are typically done on the inside (else you are potentially traveling more than 360 degrees), but testing on either side is acceptable.

Conclusion

When practicing your blocks, remember that you should try to remain in control of yourself at all times (engage that core and concentrate on your form.  Also remember for testing purposes that effectiveness is important.  All of us signed on for roller derby, which involves hitting other people on skates.  You must be able to prove that you can affect the other skater’s trajectory.
This blocking lesson completes all of the skills that are tested in minimum skills testing!  Congratulations on making it this far!  If you have any questions or concerns about any of these skills, please be sure to ask one of our trainers.  Good luck on testing!

Pick Your Person: A Guide to Choosing Your Derby Name

By Parks N Wreck You’ve finally decided to strap on those skates and get out on the track, bumpin’ hips with the best of them, the wind...